I spent the bulk of my childhood, teen and young adult life in Italy and experienced the same. The only difference is not only is it anti-black racism but it's more specific, they particularly dislike Africans. I am American and as soon as they found that out, they would be friendly and open up. Not everyone but most. I am married to an Italian man. Eventually, I got used to the stares, and would smile back.
Many eventually smile back. To be honest with you I prefer open and in your face racism, at least you know where you stand. I fear and dislike American secret and hidden racism much more, institutional racism, systemic racism where people try to affect everyhting your livelihood, where you live and physical safety. I have never felt in danger or frightened in Europe. We plan to retire there in the next 7-10 years, I can't wait!